He seemed to think it was pretty strong and held up well. I used hardener with Rustoleum rusty metal primer,the brownish stuff.I don't know what brand it was or how much I used though.A friend had it in the shop and it was cold out so we dumped what he had in with 2 quarts of Rustoleum.Turned out good and it seems to have the made the paint harder.It's been on the car about 6 yrs now,still looks good and cleans up nice. ABRASIVE BLASTING Abrasive blast is the most effective method of cleaning steel and masonry surfaces prior to coating. To answer your question, Rustoleum does as every other paint manufacturer does today: manufacture a wide range of products. Really liked the finish on my frame. We do not recommend coating over damaged or marred concrete. Clean-Up. The large version. It’s made and distributed by Flood.Many professional painters use Floetrol as their “secret weapon”. no. You could use regular mineral spirits and Penetrol, then it would flow out the best. Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 56 Savoy, Apr 2, 2015. Varnishes and paints containing oils … I painted four huge Trojan loaders with a roller and a brush using Rustoleum and they looked fabulous, no roller or brush marks whatsoever, and no runs! i just got me a gallon of professional, but when i used the "stops rust" at work for customers items (previously welder), we used japan drier (made it dry in like a 1/4 of time it would normally take to dry. rustoleum is a great product. I still prefer to brush metal railings even though it takes longer, as the thicker coats give more protection than rattlecanning it. PENETROL ® Oil-Based Coating Additive is a versatile low-odor additive to improve penetration, adhesion and flow of oil-based paints, stains, varnishes and primers.. with 1/2 potassium permanganate 1/2 black cherry coolaid powder as adative. This hardener cuts drying time in half.. The hobby-machinist is just incorrect. This naphtha-based additive doesn't come from Japan -- it gets its name from its ability to make an oil-based surface resemble Japanese lacquer. I even did side by side with the old High Gloss Muralo Ultra on two pieces of trim and the old Muralo Ultra actually leveled better, smoother, and had the same hardness as Rustoleum without smelling awful. $37.99 Free Shipping. but i wanna paint! I plan to use Vlaspar hardner unless someone knows of a better product. There is a product called Japan Drier that works great. Ever heard of it?? Condition: New. Brush on one coat of Penetrol [affil. T.J. To decrease this time Japan Dryer can be added sparingly to the oil base primer. of japan drier per quart, to speed dry time. With brushing, I wouldn't exactly say it's awful, just the OP sounded like a newer painter without a lot of experience. The Rust-Oleum professional has more pigment and is advertised to dry in 15 minutes.. but in my experience it dries to touch in the same time as the regular. Qty : Buy It Now ... RUSTOLEUM Rust-Oleum RockSolid CHERRY BOMB Red Metallic Floor Coating GARAGE. This hardener cuts drying time in half.. Sara on July 14, 2018 at 1:10 am Thanks Sharon, that’s an interesting way of drying I’ve not come across before. Ideally, you will be painting your home in sections, meaning that one part should be drying while another is painted, but colder and/or high-humidity climates will see a slower dry time, while exteriors in hotter, drier … I just think for something like tables and chairs it might not be the best choice in 2020. use FP as a cleaner, not to thin paint. Seen ratios as high as 4 paint 3 acetone. Like everything else... As an actual thinner, use the real thing... use the knock offs as cleaners. Japan drier is a liquid that speeds the drying of oil finishes such as varnish and oil paints. Ready to paint BUT its going to rain? Do be careful about adding Japan dryer. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. Rustoleum tends to dry fairly quickly as it is so I wouldn't even use the Japan Drier. Rust-Oleum: Trusted Quality Since 1921 1:1, 4:1 and see what you like. link to info/product on Amazon], thinned a bit with varsol and a bit of added Japan drier [affil. This weekend i decided to paint my 1959 Daf 600. Just curious as to what most folks use to paint the smokebox of operating steam locomotives. the worst part is, the HO didn't choose rustoleum for its anti rust properties, it was the only brand home depot had in high gloss. In some cases, when I want my surface to stay wet longer, I leave off the japan drier. Once cured out is very durable. Easy or hard is relative with any paint brushing or rolling it out, as you'll see here on PT with different preferences and experiences for everyone with every paint under the sun. My primer is the Rustoleum 7780-730 Clean Metal Primer (White stuff). This is just a good old quality medium alkyd resin with added oil most recently refined soy bean oil (Soya). Back to top It is mandatory for certain specialized applications such as water immersion and half a bottle cap of each and 2 drops of fish oil.. You can also even run into this using Rustoleum brushed on thinned with acetone, I've had the factory coating (may have been water based DTM?) Rust-Oleum® Acetone is the strongest and fastest evaporating solvent available. 10.99 off the shelf with just Paint Thinner, sanding, and polishing... No hardner, or any other chemical in the process. If you go the Oak route I think you you need 3-4 coats over the stain. Use this product with oil-based paints, oil-based enamels and varnishes By coats with the rattlecans, to clarify, I mean passes, not "coats" as in a dried coat that you're coating over. To be fair that is similar to me when I started out and did a few projects with brushed oil. a week earlier I used $50 of Nason Implement gloss with their reducer, no hardener. My father told me back in the 90s at his machine shop he worked at, the go to paint for all the machines and basically everything was Benjamin Moore Porch and Floor, presumably the oil based one. I would not switch to Rustoleum high gloss either - stay with SW or Ben Moore. This does not mean that a recommended primer to reducer ratio does not exist. If you thin the rustolum with mineral spirts and add a little of the japan drier the paint will spray nice and dry relatively fast. my current job entails repainting a kitchen table and 3 stools. Crown Japan Drier is a special blend of lead-free drying agents that accelerates the drying ability of oil-based paint and varnish. It is especially effective when weather is damp or cool to speed the drying time. You can find Japan Drier at paint stores and Cobalt Drier at art stores. Also the 8:1 ratio is only relevant to the hardener. what i learned from the thread i read was disturbing... rustoleum paint and japan drier apparently don't play well together! Come join the discussion about the industry, safety, finishing, tools, machinery, projects, styles, scales, reviews, accessories, classifieds, and more! Terms of Service. It sprayed good and dried to the touch in about 6 hours. Prepare surface. I mainly spray Rust-Oleum.. and now Rust-Oleum professional. Ron Goh's plant-filled loft is a favorite among interior design junkies all over the world (myself included!) Find a solution for your DIY project with a Rust-Oleum product. Japan Drier = fast surface dry, more brush marks Penetrol = Better leveling, slower drying. You shouldn't have any real big worries on an ever lasting shine Matt. my question is, have any of you used that with the professional grade? Condition: New. Klean-Strip Japan Drier contains a special blend of lead-free drying agents that accelerate the drying ability of oil-based enamel and varnish. This is because you’ll need to stir the paint.
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